Every fall, my wife, a friend, and I travel to Acadia, Maine to escape the stress of the Washington area. I call it my happy place. As we drive from the Bangor airport where we landed for the 90 minute drive to Acadia the stress fades away. At the midway point we stop for a decadent lunch at a country diner in Ellsworth popular with the locals, named Sylvia’s. I am beginning to feel human again. After lunch we stock up on groceries for the week–mainly breakfast.

Acadia National Park lies on Mount Desert Island and occupies a large part of it. The island is shaped like two lungs that are connected at the top. The more famous part Bar Harbor is on the east lung. That bristling village has lots of restaurants and shops. Cruise ships land there to let travelers see the town and take tour buses through the park. Ourselves we prefer the western part known at the quiet side. Separating the two lungs is a body of water known as Soames Sound. We stay in a cottage in Southwest Harbor; our sojourns to the other side is for some of the hikes, or when there is a rainy day good for shopping.

September is a great time to visit. The huge summer crowds have subsided, but the weather is still comfortable. Daytime highs are in the 60s and at night it gets into the upper 40s and lower 50s. It is not unusual to huddle over a space heat before breakfast. We have a picnic table out back, but by September it is never warm enough to breakfast. Often you might drive to a trail head for a hike with the car heater on and return after the hike with the AC on.

October is pretty but maybe a little too late especially if you plan to eat out a a lot. Crowds are even smaller but many of the seasonal restaurants close after the less cruise ship comes in. Also, one October we even encountered snow when we were trying to fly out.

Life is simple. Most days we hike on one of the many trails available for all skill levels. Because the island is compact, no trail head is more than 20 minutes away by car. There are hikes for all skill levels. Many climb a mountain for a breathtaking view while you eat your picnic lunch. I’ll be honest. Those hikes can be challenging as there is a lot of scrambling over big rocks on hands and knees and lots of granite on the trail. The tallest mountain, Cadillac Mountain, is the only one you can summit via auto. It has gorgeous 360 views. The others you summit on your own. The 2nd tallest is Sergeant Mountain which is a challenging hike but is rewarding.

There are also nice level hikes for the less ambitious. Unfortunately after back surgery those mountains are too challenging for me, but we did climb one of our all time favorites–Beech mountain. I made it to the top, but descending the steepest was was an error. Look out for the tides on Great Head or you may have to swim partway back. The flatter hikes are nice, too, such as Wonderland and Ships Harbor.

We never watch the tv but listen to a nice PBS classical music station. Our nighttime activities are chatting, reading, working on a jigsaw puzzle, and soothing our sore muscles after the hike.

And of course, there is sea food! The area is famous for lobster, but I find it too much work so opt for other seafood instead. Our favorite restaurant is a diner called the Quietside Cafe. Frances, one of the owners, makes all of the desserts–frisbee -sized macaroons, great blueberry pie, and a huge assortment of ice cream. There is a fisherman’s pizza which has all types of seafood and garlic. The pea soup (especially on a rainy day), chowder, and meat loaf when available are to die for. Another personal favorite is the more upscale Seafood Ketch in Bass harbor. I particularly like the lobster bisque, the mussels, and the bread, but it has the usual seafood selection. Again, desserts are worthwhile if you have room.

Unfortunately, the week ends all too soon and we return to the DC rat race. As I cross the bridge connecting the island to the mainland, I wistfully wish my happy place a fond adieu. A final stop at Sylvia’s for a sinful breakfast, and we are on our way. These are some of the images that flick through my mind on the plane back.

The only good thing about getting older is I get to do this again next year.